A.gargoyle gecko is mellow, very handleable pets with easy care requirements, which makes them excellent beginner-level reptile One adult gecko tokay or gecko gargouille can live in a 12″ x 12″ x 18″ enclosure its whole life. Gargoyle Geckos (Rhacodactylus auriculatus & gecko a crete in french) are native to southern New Caledonia, an island chain east of Australia. They are named for the bumps on their head which can appear to look like horns or ears. Hardy and easy to care for, Gargoyle Geckos have become very successful in captivity and are widely available today. Learn more on care sheet.
These reptiles are widely popular and available. When purchasing one, you should look for a reputable breeder and make sure the Gecko looks in good health before purchasing. The price of a gargoyle gecko may vary depending on where you buy them and their color patterns, but most retail for between $200-$500 USD. Gargoyle geckos are docile, hardy, long-lived geckos that are easy to reproduce. If not for the typical purchase price of $50 to $100 for hatchlings and juveniles, they would rival the leopard gecko, as the perfect gecko for the neophyte and advanced hobbyists alike.
Gargoyle Geckos can reach up to 7-9 inches as adults, tail included. The babies are born about 1 inch long from snout to vent and weigh about 3 grams. You can usually buy the young geckos once they measure around 5 inches. In the wild, Gargoyle Geckos can lose their tail when feeling threatened, such as when being pursued by a predator. They can also lose them in captivity, but the tail will grow back over time. Josh’s Frogs sells juveniles measuring about 4.5-5 inches.
There is some debate as to how suitable the gargoyle gecko is for beginners. They make fascinating pets due to their gargoyle-like appearance and their love of trees and wide-open spaces. The controversy comes due to their similarity to the crested gecko, which is often recommended as a good pet for beginners. If you’re looking to add reptiles to your family, geckos are a great and popular choice. They’re ideal pet lizards for beginners. Not only are geckos interesting pets that are so unique looking—you might even say they’re adorable, but they’re also relatively low-maintenance.
How do I create a BioActive vivarium? — Gargoyle Gecko
What is a bioactive terrarium?
A bioactive terrarium is a self-sustaining, self-maintaining, direct replication of the natural ecological cycle that happens on the rainforest floor. The rainforest floor is composed of thousands of different detrivores that break down decaying matter to return nutrients back into the soil. Detrivores such as isopods and springtails are the most commonly seen on the rainforest floor.
Why go bioactive?
In any terrarium, the soil is the most important part of the setup. The soil is the backbone for live plants, water drainage, and tank maintenance. Many times hobbyists will set up a terrarium and have to break it down months later because of the microbial build-up in the soil, as well as the death of plants from using soil that becomes water clogged. Having a proper bioactive setup allows for optimum plant growth, but also allows for tank longevity (10+ years without a soil change) if kept properly. The detrivores established in the tank will break down feces and other decaying matter which recycle nutrients back into the soil, thus keeping the substrate fresh and ready for the next generation. Many small amphibians such as dart frogs relish the springtails and isopods as an additional food source. Having these micro feeders established will bring out unique behaviours in your pets such as foraging and hunting, and will thrive in an environment that is a direct replication of the natural ecological cycle they are accustomed to.
How do I go bioactive with tropical setups?
Layer 1 (Drainage layer for Terra Flora and Terra Fauna)
Hydro grow, which is the terrarium drainage layer is the backbone in a successful tropical bioactive setup. This lightweight, porous material sits on the bottom layer of the terrarium with a depth of 2”. The drainage layers’ purpose is to catch the excess water that drains out of the soil. This is to prevent the Terra Flora or Terra Fauna from becoming water clogged. Excess water in the soil will lead to microbial buildup, loss of microfauna, root rot, and eventually the death of the plants. Maintaining the water level is very simple. When the water level reaches the top of the Hydro grows layer simply siphon the water out of the tank.
Layer 2 (above the HydroGro with Terra Flora and Terra Fauna setups)
The substrate barrier has one simple purpose: to keep the substrate out of the drainage layer. This makes maintaining the HydroGrow layer easier, as well as maintains the quality of the Terra Flora. The screen should be cut to match the perimeter of the inside of the tank and place directly on top of the HydroGrow.
Layer 3 (above the substrate barrier)
Directly on top of the substrate barrier sits the bringer of life, the specialty terrarium soil known as Terra Flora or Terra Fauna. This specialty mix created by the dude is the staple for a living substrate. This premium blend offers water retention, yet drains exceptionally well. It also boasts the capabilities to boost microfauna production (springtails and isopods) and promote proper development in plants. This substrate when used exactly as directed in the Dude’s guide this substrate can last 10+ years in the terrarium without ever being changed. This mix should have at least a 2” layer in the terrarium. When this mix is added it should be dumped into a bucket full of water, and squeezed so it is saturated, but not dripping. This is the appropriate water balance that this soil will maintain during the life of the vivarium.
Layer 4 (above the substrate)
Nestled softly on top of the Terra Flora or Terra Fauna lies the New Zealand premium AAA Spag Moss. This moss provides excess moisture on the top of the substrate mix to help plants with shallow roots take hold. This moss also prevents the soil from sticking to your animals if they would venture on the floor of your terrarium and also helps prevent ingestion of soil (especially with Chameleons). Prior to adding to the terrarium, it is recommended to soak the moss in a bucket until saturated, but not dripping wet. Cover the substrate layer with a thin layer of moss that has a depth of about ½”. This will help retain moisture, and eventually, breakdown putting essential nutrients back into the soil.
Layer 5 (above the spag moss)
The true meaning of bioactive comes from these small organisms that are seeded into your terrarium after the previous steps have been fulfilled. These small insects, also known as detrivores are the key to the longevity of your terrarium. The isopods are larger organisms similar to the rolley Polley insect we see commonly here in the USA. Isopods are your top janitors that will be established in your vivarium. They will quickly chase down a piece of decaying matter, cover it, and devour it very quickly. As they break down the decaying matter the essential nutrients are put back into the soil. Isopods are also an excellent source of bioavailable food for small amphibians and reptiles. They are very high in calcium, minerals, and vitamins that are a great supplemental source of food found naturally in the tank. These microorganisms will breed very quickly in the tank and create a small micro population that will establish quickly in your terrarium. Springtails are another tank janitor, but besides breaking down decaying matter they also flow through the soil. These small microorganisms will aerate the soil which helps with drainage, root development, and longevity of the terrarium. These are also an excellent source of food for small amphibians such as dart frogs and will encourage their natural foraging behaviour exhibited in the wild. To seed your tank is simple. Simply dump culture springtails and culture of isopods into the tank and they will quickly form a sustainable population in the terrarium.